Removing an engine

[Kats66Pny]

Do I have to remove the alternator and all those damn belts from the block to pull the engine out? That looks like a pain in the butt but I see no other way to attach chains to the engine unless I remove all that stuff.

[guruatbol]

I've seen these monkeys on TV do it without taking them off, but I always do.

I like to detail the engine when it is out and the brackets too, so it just makes it easy.

Make sure to label every wire and connection.  My 67 has a GM one wire alternator on it and my 65 has one from a ranger (Ford) so they are different.

The PO did the 67 and I just saw no reason to change it.

Mel

[abrahamfh]

It does help to remove the alternator, water pump, pulleys and all that other fun stuff. Just makes life a little less stressful. Oh yeah, don't forget about that sneaky engine ground wire that goes from the back o the block to the fire wall.

Here is some great info from when I did it to Fred.

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php?topic=6429

[Mach1Rider]

It mostly depends on your work area and lifting with or without the trans attached.
This pic is the Cougars eng getting ready to be dropped back in without the trans.

[Kats66Pny]

Once the engine out, I plan on detailing it. Clean it up, fresh paint, etc. Make it look a little better.  We talked about taking the engine apart to see if we can't figure out some more exact info like if it was bored or not, size of cam, etc since we have no clue about the engine other than its a 302 roller from a 90 GT and if the PO built it to race with, who knows what was done or not done. Hubby mentioned that if it wasn't bored.. possibly doing that.    Not like I would complain about that, but that just adds to the rebuild budget and right now I just want to do what needs to be done and later on down the road, do the optional things.

Last night I took pictures of everything from every angle I could get a picture of.
I left the spark plug wires connected until I can figure out a way to properly label them. 
Disconnected the fuel lines and covered the ends with plastic and taped it up so no debris can get in them.
Drained the radiator and disconnected that from the engine.

That's about as far as I've gotten so far. I was thinking of just pulling the engine w/o the trans attached.

Oh I like that way.. with a lift plate. Looks easier. LOL

[SAC69]

It's juts a matter of loosening the bottom bolt on the alt to get enough play to get the belt off, same for the p/s if you have it.  The alt is easy to remove so that should come off, I'd take the bottom alt bracket off too (one bolt.)   I've left the water pump on before but the fan & radiator do need to come off.   BTW, the chains can be attached to several points:  Opposite corners of the cylinder heads (there is a tapped boss at each end of the head, facing the firewall and facing the radiator), opposite corners of the intake manifold (remove the opposite corners that hold the manifold to the heads)  and some people use the carb studs too (need to take the carb off, obviously.)  If you have p/s, disconnect the pump from the block and gently move it out of the way a bit, attaching it with wire to something (shock cap) so it does not get caught on the engine as it's coming out.  Don't forget to remove the ground strap on the passenger side rear head.

[Kats66Pny]

Don't forget to remove the ground strap on the passenger side rear head.

Oh yeah, I did that too! Pretty much anything that was connected to the engine/carb that would interfere I disconnected.

Something else.. if I'm leaving the trans in, do I have to drain the fluid?

[SAC69]

Oh yeah, I did that too! Pretty much anything that was connected to the engine/carb that would interfere I disconnected.

Something else.. if I'm leaving the trans in, do I have to drain the fluid?

No need to drain the trans fluid, just use a plastic baggie & rubber bands to seal off the trans lines from the bottom of the radiator when/if you remove the rad. For the trans, you only need to remove the nuts (6-8?) connecting the torque converter to the engine flexplate, these are accessed thru the inspection cover at the bottom/front of the trans.  Slowly spin the the engine over by hand via the crank bolt to access the converter nuts.

[Midlife]

Oh yeah, I did that too! Pretty much anything that was connected to the engine/carb that would interfere I disconnected.

Something else.. if I'm leaving the trans in, do I have to drain the fluid?

Yes.  They tend to leak from the speedo cable hole, the rear hole, and just about any place you can imagine. 

[Kats66Pny]

No need to drain the trans fluid, just use a plastic baggie & rubber bands to seal off the trans lines from the bottom of the radiator when/if you remove the rad. For the trans, you only need to remove the nuts (6-8?) connecting the torque converter to the engine flexplate, these are accessed thru the inspection cover at the bottom/front of the trans.  Slowly spin the the engine over by hand via the crank bolt to access the converter nuts.

Good to know. Right now I'm leaving the rad in. I'm going to have to take it off eventually when it's time to paint the bay. I'm probably going to just replace the rad to one specifically made for 5.0 swap so the in/outs match the engine. Right now they are both on the passenger side which makes the bottom hose block access to properly hook the trans cooler lines.

Yes.  They tend to leak from the speedo cable hole, the rear hole, and just about any place you can imagine. 

LOL well I don't have to worry about the speedo cable hole. There's no speedo cable at all hooked up.  PO never installed one, which I'm going to have to do if I ever want to know what speed I'm driving at!

[garner67]

Do I have to remove the alternator and all those damn belts from the block to pull the engine out? That looks like a pain in the butt but I see no other way to attach chains to the engine unless I remove all that stuff.

Nah.  I have removed and installed my engine 2 times fully dressed... mini starter, alternator, water pump, carb and distributor all installed, including the T5 transmission.  You just have to make sure you have a wide enough engine leveler to keep the chain from interfering with the distributor and carb.  Also, it really helps to have a few extra hands; 1 person on the lift, 1 or 2 people wrestlin the engine up top, & 1 person below to guide the trans.

[lethal289]

its possible with all the stuff installed.  You could use one of these:



FWIW, i put my motor in with a leveler attached to the heads, and all the accessories bolted on.  Including the trans.

[silverblueBP]

Take my engine in and out all the time. All I do is remove the radiator.

[Kats66Pny]

I saw those when googling for engine removal stuff. I actually went and bought one about an hour ago.

[AzPete]

Good to know. Right now I'm leaving the rad in. I'm going to have to take it off eventually when it's time to paint the bay. I'm probably going to just replace the rad to one specifically made for 5.0 swap so the in/outs match the engine. Right now they are both on the passenger side which makes the bottom hose block access to properly hook the trans cooler lines.

LOL well I don't have to worry about the speedo cable hole. There's no speedo cable at all hooked up.  PO never installed one, which I'm going to have to do if I ever want to know what speed I'm driving at!

Remove the radiator before the engine comes out. Lots more room to work. Also, I would not tear into the engine unless you have a known problem.

[Kats66Pny]

Remove the radiator before the engine comes out. Lots more room to work. Also, I would not tear into the engine unless you have a known problem.

I'll be having some car club guys who know engines help when/if I tear it apart.

[Dne']

When I bought my stang, it didn't have a motor/tranny, so I can't help you on the removal except to mark wires for identification like someone else said. I waited and waited for someone to help me install my motor, but I wound up doing it alone, and it wasn't bad at all! The loadleveler is a MUST!! I jacked the back of my stang as high as it would go for the install. The headers in the photo were shorty's and I had to remove them as they didn't capish with my flaming river rack n pinion.
So, you're going to leave you tranny in~ wire it up somehow? or remove it too?

[Kats66Pny]

So, you're going to leave you tranny in~ wire it up somehow? or remove it too?

I have to find out why the ratchet shifter doesn't work properly. It's the B&M Quicksilver and the instructions say:
To switch from straight gate to ratchet operation, the shifter must be in the Drive position. With the stick in the Drive position the stick will drop down to engage rachet shift mode. The stick will snap down approximately 3/4".  The shifter is now in the Drive gear position.

http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/11.pdf - Page 7 has the Operation Instructions

Mine does not stay in straight gate mode and will not work in it.  I can put it in straight gate mode, but it won't shift automatically. So if the trans doesn't have to be removed for things like that, then I'll just leave it in. The more I remove, the longer it will take to get her back on the road!

[Dne']

why not just do away with that B&M shifter! get a stock auto shifter and let it shift like an automatic should.  I think the BM shifter looks kind of bulky myself.  Unless you're going to be racing it!

[Kats66Pny]

why not just do away with that B&M shifter! get a stock auto shifter and let it shift like an automatic should.  I think the BM shifter looks kind of bulky myself.  Unless you're going to be racing it!

I kind of like the ratchet shifter, and there may be a few times I take it out on the track when the club goes out there.    I've tossed the idea around about going back to the stock shifter which would allow me to put in a console. Right now, with the Quicksilver and where the PO installed it (between the seats), it makes it difficult to put a console of any kind in unless I find an aftermarket one from a different make/model of car. Even then would probably require some tweaking to make it work, which I don't mind. Just makes the interior more 'custom' looking.

[S8NS 289]

When i had a C4 i put a B&M Pro ratchet in w/ 5' cable set up,( i think it's like yours?) when i installed it it they have a second park position (chebby) and when i thought i was in Drive, it was Neutral, I had to adjust my linkage... I'm not familiar with the shifter you have, sorry i cant help more.

[Kats66Pny]

I only know what was told to me when I bought it and even the person I bought it from didn't know anything other than what was told to him since he got the mustang in a swap for his rusted shell Cuda. All I really know is the engine was built with the intentions of racing and the stuff under the hood is its a '90 GT 302 Roller, GT40 Heads, Air Gap Intake, and Holley Carb which I later learned was a 700 DP. I have no idea the cam size or if it was bored over any.   

It would be nice to know this stuff, but how much of the engine would I have to take apart to figure this stuff out? 

[cmayna]

Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but if you plan to pull the motor and tranny together, jack up the back end of the car big time for the angle will make the pull easier.  Yes, pull the radiator first.

[AzPete]

Almost a complete tear down. The cam needs to be measured for lift and duration for starters. Then the bore and stroke..... My thought is if it runs good, don't tear it apart. You may be asking for troubles. If you did take it apart, you might as well build it again to the specs you desire. It is just money after all.....

The shifter......you should be able to contact B&M and get info on it. You should be able to relocate it for a better console fit too.

[Horseplay]

I disagree, Pete. If she's pulling the engine it's pretty simple to find out what kind of cam she's got. Take off the front cover and chain and you'll almost certainly be able to get the cam make and info of the end of the cam. Or, pull the intake and valve cover and you can slip in a solid lifter and measure the cam lift with a dial gauge. Pull a head and you can measure the bore. With the engine out it's not much work at all. In and done in a few hours. Peace of mind for a hell of a lot longer.

If it were me, I'd pull that thing apart enough to see what was going on inside. Some of the things you've revealed about that car and dismissed as "PO didn't bother because it was to be a race car" could just as easily be explained as " PO was an idiot and didn't know what he was doing". It would suck to do all the work you intend only to find out that engine was a ticking time bomb. It only costs the price of a few gaskets to take a look at what was done.