Author Topic: Repro sheet metal rant (Pics) (Read 1468 times)

jtfx6552 · « **Reply #25 on:** February, 01, 2011, 02:58:12 PM »

Some more pics, after I get the bottom of this in place, then I plan to cut out the bad spots up under the window flange.

abrahamfh · « **Reply #26 on:** February, 01, 2011, 04:22:23 PM »

I will soon join in on your rant, the scott drake repro doesn't look like it's going to give in easy.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #27 on:** February, 02, 2011, 05:53:01 AM »

Quote from: jtfx6552 on February, 01, 2011, 02:55:42 PM

Dennis,

Let me know if you have any thoughts on where i should measure? I'm not sure I follow on the tail light panel?

In the mean time, can you measure the trap door opeing in the shell?

I had to remove the pieces on one side to fix some rust. I took a bunch of measurements, but of course I forgot the one that appears to be most critical to actuall putting this stuff back in the right place.

I'm thinking I need the width at the top and the bottom in case the opeing isn't square. I think it should be square, but I''ve been bitten in the past on this car when I guess where something should be.

Pics of what I did below:

I'll try to get in the garage for a while today, but between my elderly in-laws requiring 24-7 attention and the weather preventing help from getting in, my free time is pretty minimal.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #28 on:** February, 11, 2011, 12:44:50 PM »

Quote from: jtfx6552 on February, 01, 2011, 02:55:42 PM

Dennis,

Let me know if you have any thoughts on where i should measure? I'm not sure I follow on the tail light panel?

In the mean time, can you measure the trap door opeing in the shell?

I had to remove the pieces on one side to fix some rust. I took a bunch of measurements, but of course I forgot the one that appears to be most critical to actuall putting this stuff back in the right place.

I'm thinking I need the width at the top and the bottom in case the opeing isn't square. I think it should be square, but I''ve been bitten in the past on this car when I guess where something should be.

Pics of what I did below:

I finally got to spend some quality time with the mustang today. Measured the trap door opening like you asked. Below you can see three mounting holes along the sides of the opening:

I measured to these holes assuming they are the key locations.
C-C vertically top hole to bottom hole both sides is 9 9/16"
C-C between the top holes is 33 3/8"
C-C between the bottom is the same, 33 3/8"
Diagonally C-C top pass side hole to bottom drvr side hole is 34 9/16"
Diagonally C-C top drvr side to bottom pass side is 34 5/8"
Presumably the opening is supposed to be square, so the diagonal calculates to 34.7179", which is between 34 9/16" and 34 3/4". Mine is apparently slightly out of square.
Also, I've cut my driver side free of the trunk floor in order to slide the new floor into place, so I may have got it off slightly, but it's damn close:

jtfx6552 · « **Reply #29 on:** February, 11, 2011, 07:58:24 PM »

Thanks! I'll be out in the garage on Saturday...

jtfx6552 · « **Reply #30 on:** February, 12, 2011, 06:38:04 AM »

Dennis,

Do you know what in those holes? Mine had the remains of rivets. I thought that must not have been factory, so on the one side, I welded them closed. Guess I got to put them back...

cmayna · « **Reply #31 on:** February, 12, 2011, 07:26:12 AM »

Dennis, both Red and Shag have full trunk carpet kits so they won't do any good to take measurements (besides they don't want me messin' with them) but I will have access to a 67 FB for a couple weeks which still has a empty trunk (but the tank is in place) and can take some measurements as needed. Maybe if you supply pics of what you want measured indicating with either a measuring tape, we can then duplicate the pose with our own measurements.

Yes it looks like per NPD's catalog, these drop off were the same from 65 thru 70

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #32 on:** February, 12, 2011, 08:52:34 AM »

Thanks, Craig.
I've been studying some, and I think I'm going to mount the rear valance, since i still have the original screw holes in the original tail light panel, and allow it to control both horizontal and vertical location of the rear of the quarter (IOW, just bring the bottom of the new quarter up until it fits proper at the bottom of the valance). That leaves me not knowing where the front of the quarter (the rear edge of the wheel well) should be vertically, so any dimension there will help. Maybe confirm the measurement jtfx6552 had at the back edge of the wheel well. I'll get out today and take a couple more pics. I'm not sure the 2nd gen cars are the same, though.
Man, just writing about this is getting me pissed again. I paid good money for that work, and it's all crap. And I'm mad at myself for not even noticing it before.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #33 on:** February, 12, 2011, 08:55:17 AM »

Quote from: jtfx6552 on February, 12, 2011, 06:38:04 AM

Dennis,

Do you know what in those holes? Mine had the remains of rivets. I thought that must not have been factory, so on the one side, I welded them closed. Guess I got to put them back...

No, sorry. It's been so long since I took it apart, I'd have to get into the attic and drag the door and fold down out again and look. And that ain't gonna happen anytime soon.

Midlife · « **Reply #34 on:** February, 12, 2011, 09:40:21 AM »

Quote from: jtfx6552 on February, 12, 2011, 06:38:04 AM

Dennis,

Do you know what in those holes? Mine had the remains of rivets. I thought that must not have been factory, so on the one side, I welded them closed. Guess I got to put them back...

If you are talking about the vertical holes on the rear panels, those held the fastback interior pieces in place by the use of rivets.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #35 on:** February, 12, 2011, 09:43:30 AM »

I only remember 1 rivet per side, on those fiberglas corner pieces right at the bottom corners of the window.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #36 on:** February, 14, 2011, 11:17:47 AM »

Quote from: cmayna on February, 12, 2011, 07:26:12 AM

Dennis, both Red and Shag have full trunk carpet kits so they won't do any good to take measurements (besides they don't want me messin' with them) but I will have access to a 67 FB for a couple weeks which still has a empty trunk (but the tank is in place) and can take some measurements as needed. Maybe if you supply pics of what you want measured indicating with either a measuring tape, we can then duplicate the pose with our own measurements.

Yes it looks like per NPD's catalog, these drop off were the same from 65 thru 70

Sorry I took so long getting back. Yes, I think a measurement from the bottom of the quarter at the back edge of the wheel well to the top of the trunk floor will help a lot.
Attached is a pic showing what I mean. The tape is touching the bottom of the wheel house, and is 18" forward of the taillight panel along the top of the floor where it drops.

slingslingbinks · « **Reply #37 on:** May, 22, 2011, 08:00:28 PM »

I'm not answering an older post, But adding in what i just ran into. Like Dennis's first picture, I also ran into the problem of the trunk floor pan's drop down's not fitting my quarters on my 64 Stang. They were dynacorn's and i got some from NPD that fit, They are a r dot brand, They aren't as thick but the only thing else to do was eather do as Dennis did or weld on longer drop down's. Here's my post from VMF.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/627991-fitting-trunk-floor-pans.html
C-ya Scott