Author Topic: Replacing a cowl (Read 1276 times)

Kats66Pny · « **on:** January, 25, 2011, 06:13:38 AM »

I was looking online for cowl information and stuff and ran across an article in Mustang Monthly.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0611_ford_mustang_reproduction_cowl_replacement/index.html

Is this how to article fairly accurate and worth saving in my favs folder for when it's time to repair the cowl?

AzPete · « **Reply #1 on:** January, 25, 2011, 06:28:56 AM »

It is accurate for the two piece unit. Are you using the one piece? Other than that difference, it is accurate.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #2 on:** January, 25, 2011, 06:58:24 AM »

According to the mustang unlimited catalogue , the 65/66 cowl assembly comes as two pieces (upper & lower) so I guess I'll be using 2 pieces.

KTJMcG · « **Reply #3 on:** January, 25, 2011, 08:03:22 AM »

I did it on my 70 about 3 years ago before they came out with the reproduction for 69/70. I had to bend the metal myself and piece it together.Start by buying a spotweld cutter and more than 3 replacement cutters. You'll need them.

short slideshow video of the work.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #4 on:** January, 25, 2011, 08:08:10 AM »

Something like this?

3/8" Double Sided Rotary Spot Weld Cutter

I was thinking of just using some drill bits (cobalt) for metal.

Does the cutter work better?

KTJMcG · « **Reply #5 on:** January, 25, 2011, 08:20:05 AM »

Yep. I would spend the extra cash on the blair. I saw those in the Harbor Freight store and passed. The arbor looks weak.

Robs66Coupe · « **Reply #6 on:** January, 25, 2011, 09:05:41 AM »

Depending on how bad the cowl is, it might be worthwhile to only replace part of it. Check out this guy's page. He's pretty skilled (in my eyes). But he was able to save the top and bottom parts of the cowls and only replace patches. That probably saves around $250-300. Just a thought.

http://www.kevinsrodshop.com/

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #7 on:** January, 25, 2011, 09:35:43 AM »

The whole thing needs replaced unfortunately.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #8 on:** January, 25, 2011, 10:24:40 AM »

Check if the nuts, used to secure the windshieldwiper pivots , are welded in place.See lower part of the cowl.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #9 on:** January, 25, 2011, 10:27:29 AM »

Quote from: B67FSTB on January, 25, 2011, 10:24:40 AM

Check if the nuts, used to secure the windshieldwiper pivots , are welded in place.See lower part of the cowl.

are they inside (between the uppper & lower cowl pieces) or up under the dash?

B67FSTB · « **Reply #10 on:** January, 25, 2011, 11:17:02 AM »

inside the cowl

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #11 on:** January, 25, 2011, 03:42:45 PM »

Kat,
Attached is a pic showing the nuts they're talking about. Also I like the blair type cutter better than the hole saw type. I also had decent results with 3/8" - 1/2" drill bits blunted so they didn't go through. Here's a bunch of pictures of my not too horrible amateur fix (among other things):
http://ynned.zxq.net/Main%20Mustang%20site/

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #12 on:** January, 25, 2011, 04:11:59 PM »

This thing?? sorry for blurry picture. iphone isn't best and my normal camera is too big to angle up in there.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #13 on:** January, 25, 2011, 04:50:33 PM »

Yes. Wow, what'd you do, cut the top open?

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #14 on:** January, 25, 2011, 04:55:32 PM »

I took the pieces out that were already cut by a previous cowl repair. It started with chipping away tons of bondo to see what it was hiding and next thing I know there were seams and I took off the pieces with a BFG and screwdriver.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #15 on:** January, 25, 2011, 05:59:34 PM »

Sure seems like the hard way to do it. I suppose if you fix it with filler, though.... I figured I'd never get it right again doing something like that. If one takes it apart the way it was put together you have a fightin' chance.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #16 on:** January, 25, 2011, 06:12:48 PM »

I didn't cut out the holes. They were already there. Alll I did was take a hammer and hit it a few times and it came loose.

They were covered with about 1/2" of bondo which was also inside the seams. Whoever repaired the cowl vents in the past didn't weld the parts cut out all the way around. They did few spot welds just to hold it in place and smothered bondo over the seams to fill it.

Last picture shows what the cowl looks like from under the dash. NASTY! That's why I'm replacing the entire upper and lower parts.

Dennis Harrelson · « **Reply #17 on:** January, 25, 2011, 06:28:17 PM »

Yeah, I understood it was done by a PO. You're fortunate the entire upper & lower are available now, that's quite a mess.

B67FSTB · « **Reply #18 on:** January, 26, 2011, 02:21:30 AM »

Kate

Do remember that , when welding your new cowl in place , your firewall insulation could catch fire !!!

Havok1 · « **Reply #19 on:** January, 29, 2011, 06:28:32 AM »

Kat, that article is pretty spot on. One of the differences we did on mine though was weld in the pieces seperately. We welded the lower to the car, then the upper to the lower. We used a sheet metal punch from Harbour Freight to make the holes for welding just like they said in the article and it made the process nice because we weren't trying to fill the holes left by the spot weld cutter. Speaking of which, we used both the one from harbour freight and a nicer one from a paint and body store. Spend the extra money. The harbour freight ones will work, but you go through them quicker. One trick we found when cutting out the welds is to used a punch to make an indention for the auger on the cutter so it doesn't wiggle around while you're starting.

One other thing to think about. Don't know if your radio panel needs to be patched or if you're running and aftermarket that uses a larger hole. I'm going to go back with an original looking radio but the PO had hacked the dash. With the cowl out, it make it much easier to put in the radio patch panel because you could easily get to the back through the cowl hole. The cowl also make it easy to spray some primer, rust stopper behind the dash if you're so inclined. I realize your car isn't as apart as mine is at this time, but there are quite a few quick "while I'm at its" to consider. Good luck!! Let me know if you have any questions since I just finished this exact project less than a month ago. I've attached a couple pics:

1. Old cowl out. Same as yours, heavily bondoed on the sides and had more holes than swiss chees underneath.
2. Noticed how much access it gives behind the dash while out.
3. Fitting the upper and lower to get hole placements for the sheet metal punch.
4. Lots of welds. Thankfully my dad is pretty good at it.
5. Notice the paint peeking through the cowl slots. Glad I followed that step.

Kats66Pny · « **Reply #20 on:** January, 29, 2011, 07:24:13 AM »

The more I learn about repairing the cowl, the less I want to mess with it. I'm too scared I'd mess something up or if I let just anyone weld it in and they mess something up

.... so I might be taking it to classicdoug's shop here in town and let them do it. It'll be pricey, but that's what income tax return is for.

I got lucky, the radio panel was never cut and the original radio was still there. That's one thing I won't change my mind about. I want to keep the original radio in the dash. It doesn't work, but I don't care. I like having that little piece of history in the mustang. I plan on adding an another radio though built in somehow to the console with speakers in the top of the dash, kick panel, package tray, and maybe in the trunk.

Heap64 · « **Reply #21 on:** January, 29, 2011, 09:31:23 AM »

About 1/3rd the way down my webpage is where I replaced my cowl. I liked using two pieces so I could prep/seal/paint the lower portion easily. I did mate up the lower and upper pieces again, before installing them together back on the car.

http://www.heartlandlasercreations.com/67%20Convertible.htm

67 Fastback · « **Reply #22 on:** January, 29, 2011, 11:24:48 AM »

Quote from: Kats66Pny on January, 29, 2011, 07:24:13 AM

The more I learn about repairing the cowl, the less I want to mess with it. I'm too scared I'd mess something up or if I let just anyone weld it in and they mess something up .... so I might be taking it to classicdoug's shop here in town and let them do it. It'll be pricey, but that's what income tax return is for.

I got lucky, the radio panel was never cut and the original radio was still there. That's one thing I won't change my mind about. I want to keep the original radio in the dash. It doesn't work, but I don't care. I like having that little piece of history in the mustang. I plan on adding an another radio though built in somehow to the console with speakers in the top of the dash, kick panel, package tray, and maybe in the trunk.

Doing the work yourself is the best part about owning a classic.

Bill