Author Topic: Anyone Have the Torque Specs for Alum Manif Install? (Read 839 times)

DEL65 · « **on:** January, 01, 2011, 08:59:07 AM »

I'm finally getting around to installing my 4v manifold. Can I ask for the torque specs? IIRC, it is done in 2 or 3 steps. Thanks a bunch.

1497 · « **Reply #1 on:** January, 01, 2011, 09:23:44 AM »

Instructions for my Stealth were 10, 15, and finally 25 lb.ft. for the inner 8 bolts leaving the ends at 15 so as not to break the casting ears

pprince · « **Reply #2 on:** January, 01, 2011, 10:40:04 AM »

I have always hand tightened snug, being very careful with the overhang bolts.

I have also always found that after the manifold has had a few runs you need to re-tighten the bolts.

You don't have to be too anal with these bolts.

guruatbol · « **Reply #3 on:** January, 01, 2011, 10:58:42 AM »

Quote from: pprince on January, 01, 2011, 10:40:04 AM

I have always hand tightened snug, being very careful with the overhand bolts.

I have also always found that after the manifold has had a few runs you need to re-tighten the bolts.

You don't have to be too anal with these bolts.

+1 with a butt load of silicone.

Mel

66benchcoupe · « **Reply #4 on:** January, 01, 2011, 11:14:23 AM »

I dip the bolt threads in oil and oil the washers so I get an accurate torque reading. IIRC, torque in 3 steps up to 26lbs on all bolts, follow the torque sequence. I go light on the silicone, except on the front and back where silicone is the gasket. I hope your garage is heated!

Robert

silverblueBP · « **Reply #5 on:** January, 01, 2011, 02:19:32 PM »

Quote from: guruatbol on January, 01, 2011, 10:58:42 AM

+1 with a butt load of silicone.

Mel

Why would you bring Kevin into this conversation??

cmayna · « **Reply #6 on:** January, 01, 2011, 03:26:52 PM »

Well, I think pprince stated it when he said "You don't have to be too anal with these bolts." Of course Mel just had to make a reply back with a "butt load" comment. The direction some of these posts go.......gesshhhh !!

pprince · « **Reply #7 on:** January, 01, 2011, 03:52:30 PM »

oh boy, what did I start?

FordDude · « **Reply #8 on:** January, 01, 2011, 04:00:18 PM »

Quote from: pprince on January, 01, 2011, 03:52:30 PM

oh boy, what did I start?

When are you going to learn that you are dealing with a bunch of juveniles in this place.

Since I am here may I make one little suggestion when it comes to installing the intake. I like to install some all thread rod at the corners. That way when I sit the intake in place it goes right on the money.

fd

pprince · « **Reply #9 on:** January, 01, 2011, 04:39:13 PM »

The studs are absolutely the way to go.

I use them every time I install an intake.

guruatbol · « **Reply #10 on:** January, 01, 2011, 04:51:30 PM »

I should of known some of you would take that wrong....It didn't dawn on my until just a few minutes ago when I got back on the computer.

Ok, I thought the OPs question was addressed pretty well so I didn't elaborate. Use the silicone on the ends and I use a bunch and have never had one leak! Make sure you allow it to squeeze out evenly then if you want a clean look you can wait for it to dry and trim it up. I use the clear stuff on the intakes.

I like the Fel-Pro gaskets.

Sheesh, you guys!

Mel

cmayna · « **Reply #11 on:** January, 01, 2011, 04:56:52 PM »

Quote from: pprince on January, 01, 2011, 04:39:13 PM

The studs are absolutely the way to go.

That's what my wife says.......

silverblueBP · « **Reply #12 on:** January, 01, 2011, 05:25:46 PM »

Quote from: cmayna on January, 01, 2011, 04:56:52 PM

That's what my wife says.......

I was gonna say something along that line but figured it would cause people to cry.

pprince · « **Reply #13 on:** January, 01, 2011, 07:18:46 PM »

Quote from: cmayna on January, 01, 2011, 04:56:52 PM

That's what my wife says.......

She likes to shop outside the home, eh?

cmayna · « **Reply #14 on:** January, 02, 2011, 06:38:08 AM »

Attempting to be somewhat serious for a change (new year resolution BS), I wonder if I should go back and check the bolts on Shag's alum intake for since I fired the motor up, I don't think I have checked them.

DEL65 · « **Reply #15 on:** January, 02, 2011, 10:03:12 AM »

Someday I'll get used to the fact that whenever I start a thread on this site, it always devolves to 'butt' and 'stud' posts. The creativity is surprising.

Thanks for the torque numbers and Robert's tip to lube up the new, hard, studly studs in oil. I'm using the felpro intake gaskets. I tossed the front and rear cork ones, and instead I'll use the RTV silicone stuff to seal that up. SAC69 loaned me 4 guide pins so I can accurately drop the manifold onto the gaskets. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.

Progress so far:

guruatbol · « **Reply #16 on:** January, 02, 2011, 10:10:21 AM »

Looks good so far. Make sure all the mating surfaces are super clean and free of oil or water. I have seen but never done it, that there is a paint type coating for the valley you can use and it will help with the recirculation of the oil. Mind you I have never done it, so I have no personal experience.

Top end stuff is super easy and it isn't a bad place to get the "While you are at it" syndrome.

Mel

pprince · « **Reply #17 on:** January, 02, 2011, 11:35:17 AM »

The paint is called Glyptal.

Eastwoods sells it.

guruatbol · « **Reply #18 on:** January, 02, 2011, 06:06:10 PM »

Quote from: pprince on January, 02, 2011, 11:35:17 AM

The paint is called Glyptal.

Eastwoods sells it.

Yep that's it....Thanks, my memory isn't what it used to be!

Mel

66benchcoupe · « **Reply #19 on:** January, 02, 2011, 07:40:28 PM »

Quote from: guruatbol on January, 02, 2011, 10:10:21 AM

Looks good so far. Make sure all the mating surfaces are super clean and free of oil or water. I have seen but never done it, that there is a paint type coating for the valley you can use and it will help with the recirculation of the oil. Mind you I have never done it, so I have no personal experience.

Top end stuff is super easy and it isn't a bad place to get the "While you are at it" syndrome.

Mel

I'd strongly advise against doing that. . .

Robert

guruatbol · « **Reply #20 on:** January, 02, 2011, 08:37:05 PM »

Quote from: 66benchcoupe on January, 02, 2011, 07:40:28 PM

I'd strongly advise against doing that. . .

Robert

Since I have no experience with that stuff, can you educate me and everyone else? Why not?

Mel

66benchcoupe · « **Reply #21 on:** January, 02, 2011, 11:32:47 PM »

Quote from: guruatbol on January, 02, 2011, 08:37:05 PM

Since I have no experience with that stuff, can you educate me and everyone else? Why not?

Mel

OK, I suppose I should qualify that remark. A coating like you mentioned should be applied to a bare block - that way, when your done prepping and painting and you are sure the coating is cured, you can then clean the block for final assembly. Prepping and painting the lifter valley on an engine in-car would surely leave some undesirable contaminants in the engine, no matter how careful you were in the process.

Robert

apollard · « **Reply #22 on:** January, 03, 2011, 04:46:57 AM »

You will also never get the oil out of the pores in the casting while the engine is installed.

Oil in casting + paint of any kind = paint flecks in oil.

guruatbol · « **Reply #23 on:** January, 03, 2011, 03:56:41 PM »

You know with as much experience as I have building engines, I should have thought of that! Oh, well nobody is perfect!

Oh, really I knew that....it was a test and you guys passed with flying colors!

Mel