Where to place PPV?

[Dne']

I have a adjustable proportioning valve, where is a convenient place to put it?
dne'

[Starfury]

I've seen people actually route it through the trunk.  Requires some creative work on the rear brake line, but it makes for easy access.

If you don't feel like doing that, I'd splice it in just south of the distribution block.

[Dne']

yes, that would probably be the easist place.  And I'd be able to reach it pretty well.  Just wondering what creativity others may have done.
thanks!

[Fast68back]

Use one of these in place of the existing distribution block

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SSB%2DA0730PL&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[68EFIvert]

That is exactly what I used on my car and it works like a charm.  I helps to clean up all the clutter.  God knows I have enough going on under my hood.

[Dne']

OMG~ what a beautiful motor, and Mustang!
I have the ppv already, and a distribution block is just a portal to distribute the fluid to where it needs to go anyway.  I was laying in bed away thinking, I can just put it between the MC and distribution block, and it would be really easy to reach.

However, I read that putting the ppv between the MC/distribution block would kick the brake light on, but that makes to sense.  The equalization valve in the DB senses pressure differential caused by Air being in the line triggering the light to illuminate, however, the brake system would be able to maintain either front or rear brakes(depends on where the air is) until the problem is resolved. (Like getting the brake light to go out when bleeding the brakes, getting the valve to shift or "equalized). So, as long as I put the PPV after the front portal(which feeds the rear brakes) of the MC, should be~just fine.  This makes sense, right? :dance
thanks,
dne'

[Fast68back]

It does, but like Darreld mentioned, it clears up the clutter and saves space. The unit I linked is both a distribution block and prop valve. The stock brake light switch will mount where the one is in the picture. They offer a polished piece as well, if your into the bling...

[joesgt281]

I used the original distribution block, then added the PPV and a line lock.
With your motor you may be okay, but with my 351 it is a real biotch getting to that back plug with all the lines and stuff I've got going on.
I may eventually go to some braided lines or move things around because of that problem.
And although the hood hinge is not on in these pics, it does fit in there, partly because I spaced the PPV out from the inner fender a bit.

[Dne']

Thanks Joe, exactly what I needed to see(and read)! I do appreciate the photos!! :notworthy: I'm still waiting on a flaring kit to get here, so it will probably be next week until I begin my plumbing work!   I bought a kit from Summit, but it was Taiwan made, and really cheap(70.oo).  I thought sure it would have been quality coming from Summit, but not!  I ordered a Ridgid Flaring set. Should be really good!(I hope I hope).
thanks,
dne'

[daveSanborn]

Dne,

I'm not so sure about your idea to run the PPV prior to the distribution block....  maybe I just haven't thought about it enough, but I've always mounted the PPV after the distribution block.

With your motor still uninstalled, you have the luxury of installing and plumbing the PPV wherever you want.  Where the brake line bends to go rearward around the firewall/transmission tunnel there is plenty of room to install the PPV.  Remember that you're only going to be adjusting the valve ONE TIME and then it's set forever unless you upgrade something in the brake system.

BTW, not sure what problems you had with the flaring kit, but I use the cheap loan-a-tool kit from Autozone and it works great!  It takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, creating perfect double flares is a cake walk.

[Dne']

I'm a little perplexed by this PPV(aftermarket)/equalizing valve/distribution block~Before the DB(distribution block).  Would the aftermarket PPv cause a disruption of equalization, therefore tripping?  Hydraulic pressure, as long as it's constant between front/rear will be in sync..However, if an air bubble/s caused from overheating, or allowing a level in the MC to become too low, sucking in air, then the valve would trip because equalization was compromised.

So now we have a ppv before the DB. Will the equalizing valve sense this variance in hydraulic pressure and trip? this is what we would be afraid of right? :hmm  I guess the question arises, would I want to take that chance, painstakingly install it, only for it to trip!   I have a few days before actually completing the task~ I'll think about it and listen.  Maybe this will help others as well.

As for my Taiwan flaring tool and tools in general.  I have this thing about Taiwan tools even if they were to work well, they still look cheap! And for a company like Summit representing something cheaply made upsets me a little, I wouldn't have bought it if I had known!  I like well made tools and don't mind paying extra even if only to use once.  It's like a spring compressor, I can buy one for 35.oo(and I did), but risk your body parts for it may fail, but a Snap on coil spring compressor(which I bought) will be much better.  Ironically, most the parts I have bought for my stang are made in Taiwan! lol  :doh  Oh well, maybe Taiwan stuff will be like things Made in Japan a long time ago~ Now Japan stuff is premo!

I guess it's just that I'm putting in stuff for brake lines and I want to do it correctly the first time! Then I can pleased with myself that I used a good tool to do it correctly the first time. No leaks! :notworthy:
Sorry for being so lengthy!

[Midlife]

I've not seen the acronym PPV used before for the proportioning valve.  Anyone have an idea what the second "P" means?

[Dne']

Pro portioning valve   ~ I tend to make up things as I go along :doh  However, makes logical sense that it's a PPV and not a PV.

Pro- meaning before
Portion- component, part of
ing-  is itself has no meaning. It is used as a suffix to change present indefinite tense to present continuous tense.

PPV Proportioning Valve ~ as listed in the online dictionary. :dance

I'm not being a smarty, it just seemed to me that's what it should be called.
dne'

[Dne']

BTW Midlife, I love the rear end of your stang! :pep

[daveSanborn]

Careful Dne,

Randy (Midlife) is a Doctor.  If you get him started we'll all pay the price.

LOL

[Midlife]

I'm biting my tongue...

[Fast68back]

Bah.........So am I Mid, so am I

[Dne']

My hands are really hurting from bending all the brake lines! The tool from Eastwood saved the day, but still was rough on my hands! Now I just need to install the rear axle, but waiting for my geek mechanic to put the axle bearing on! He's had my axles for almost 4 weeks! I'm not finished with the installation, but the most difficult part is over.

My engine compartment is getting closer for the motor! :pep This installation was definitey a challenge.  I made a little bracket to hold the valve and it worked well.  Well, I'm going to put my hands in some ice water!  As usual, thanks for all the help and advice! :bow
dne'

[Fast68back]

Dne,
Looks really nice, I would however suggest pulling that one line off the aprom a little, it'll end up tearing into the paint. It may not even be touching, but it looks pretty darn close.

[Dne']

Thanks, yes, I'll be moving that line away from the apron.  I saw it, I just had enough for this evening! lol  There's still more work to be done here.  Just tiding up I guess, fastening the lines to the firewall, etc..

[garner67]

I have a adjustable proportioning valve, where is a convenient place to put it?
dne'

I'm not exactly sure what you mean about "convenient" location, but I did something a little different.  I mounted my proportioning valve in the cabin, on the trans tunnel hump.  The adjustment knob sticks out of the ashtray hole of my console, and I fabricated a stainless steel cover that fills the open ashtray hole.  Here are a couple of pics...

[Dne']

Now that's convenient Garner!  When I was just going to use the adjustable valve for the rear brakes, I just couldn't figure out where to put it that would have been reachable/accessible.  So I just went ahead and installed the expensive one seen in the photo here. I'm pleased with how it came out(installation/bracket i made).  My Rigid flaring tool was execellent in making nice double flares too! I'm not sure if I'm going to use the pressure switch for the brake yet.  It does make it look more 'techy'! lol  Could I just run the wires from my existing brake light switch through the firewall and connect it to the switch seen in the photo?

[Dne']

After having used this bender, it did work great, but is tough on the wrists, and I know I'll have a nice blister from twisting, etc.  I got it from Eastwood.com.  I saw there were maybe better ones available now!  Maybe less detrimental to the hands, more of a roller type. But I'm OK with this one as the job is hopefully almost finished.

I was laying in bed thinking last night(I do that often)lol.  I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder before installation, and I will tell you, gettting that MC off is a PAIN! Can I just allow it to gravity bleed or let someone work the brake pedal to accomplish the same Bench bleeding affect?
photo is from Eastwood.com(advertisement)

[joesgt281]

you've got some mad skillz Dne!
if you used the standard type of brake lines, ie, not chrome, they will eventually rust.
a tip i picked up was to steel wool them, then clearcoat them.

[Dne']

Thank Joe for the compliment! I eat that up!  The brake lines I bought from Laurelmountain mustang as a kit, you know, the entire brake line set.  Yeah cool, just bolt em up! ha ha ha :rofl! I guess I can still steel wool them while they're still easy to get at, and shoot some clear on them?
dne'