Welding in quarter panels?

[buckeyedemon]

by complete do you mean you only welded part of the quarter? are you concerned about the filler cracking?

[34isgreat]

Well yes I did a lower quarter replacment, do not worry about it cracking. My seam is flat and a minimum of filler will be required. If it cracks later I have learned a lession. I spot welded it every 1/2 inch, I think I am OK. Time will tell.

[buckeyedemon]

the only difference from welding the complete panel and what you have done is time. 

you simply continue what you did until the entire seam is welded.  just finish the deal and then at the end of the day you'll be better at welding.  ...and you can consider yourself better then other hacks.

the quarter panels are structural items.  when the factory lapped a joint they didn't put plastic in it to smooth the seam.  they used lead.  in other cases a flexible sealer was used.  "bondo" gets a bad name because of abuse.

[tarafied1]

  ...and you can consider yourself better then other hacks.

I am one of those hacks! I did my quarters that way 20 years ago and I have had no cracks. You do make a good point about the filler vs lead, but I guess I am lucky

[ZFORCE]

Hey 34isgreat, looks nice, I'm sure it will work either way, but if you haven't finished it with filler, why don't you weld the seam 100%?  Where did you get your battery apron?  That apron is one of the nicest I've seen.

[buckeyedemon]

I am one of those hacks! I did my quarters that way 20 years ago and I have had no cracks. You do make a good point about the filler vs lead, but I guess I am lucky

if you had to do that same type of repair today would you weld the seam or spot it like you did 20 years ago?

[34isgreat]

Zforce most of my parts came from CJ Pony Parts. Apron fit was good, the holes at the bottom edge for the battery tray leg did not line up right but I just drilled them out and filled the wrong ones up when I welded it in. I am happy with it. Got my lower quarter panel patch from the same place, it fit OK but the back edge where the rear vallance bolts up was made differently than the OEM one, had to modify my new rear vallance mounting bracket to get it to fit. Not a major deal, for what I paid I can't complain. CJ Pony parts has the best prices and FREE SHIPPING!

[tarafied1]

if you had to do that same type of repair today would you weld the seam or spot it like you did 20 years ago?

Well considering that it held up all these years and it's a driver, sees abuse and all kinds of weather, I would feel safe doing it that way again. I am replacing the quarters on my latest 67, however I am using a full quarter. I just worried about warpage with a full seam. I may try a skin on the right side and may try to weld the full seam this time.

[34isgreat]

  I can say someone skinned the other side of my 67 and spot welded it just below the C pillar. Car sat for 20 years and seam did crack and rust. I have welded this back solid for safety to avoid it cracking again.

[mustangstofear]

I got to disagree that a good butt weld using MIG is not strong.  It has been demonstrated over and over again using 19 gauge steel (the typical thickness of Mustang sheet metal) that once welded, the break occurs not at the weld but elsewhere.  TIG welding may allow you to butt weld cooler and with more precision, but there are many hobbyists that simply don't have the skills or funding to afford TIG.

Midlife if you take two pieces of metel and butt weld them together by the time you grind it smooth try bending it half and see if it will break, if you were to leave lets say 30. thousands gap you would have a stronger weld, but you would see the weld from the backside. The main trick I use is to spot weld bouncing back and forth from one end to the other, do not try to stitch weld or you will warp the panel. Also don't pre punch any holes if you only have 3/8 of a lip it is to close to the edge and it will warp where you punched those holes. Rich