Author Topic: Mcleod internal slave, How did you attach the lines? (Read 900 times)

RyanG85 · « **on:** July, 24, 2010, 05:59:47 AM »

I'm fitting the internal slave cylinder to my T5 and looking for options on how to attach the pressure and bleed lines. Directions are really vague. Any pictures or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

buening · « **Reply #1 on:** July, 24, 2010, 01:32:16 PM »

Did yours not come with the 11" bleed and feed lines already attached? Here is a picture of mine and how it was in the box

Hope you have better luck than me. See my T56 thread for more info

RyanG85 · « **Reply #2 on:** July, 24, 2010, 02:52:32 PM »

I did read your post and mine is the same as yours, my question is, how did you route those lines and what did you attach them too. I have mine coming through the bell housing hole where the fork would normally be. I'm planning on some sort of plate there with a bracket to mount the lines onto. Just looking for other ideas beforehand.

I'll be contacting Bruce on Monday for some questions in general. It will be a few weeks before the engine is ready to drop in so I'll be following your post to see what becomes of the slave issue..... I hope its something minor and isolated.... Good luck and keep everyone posted.

garner67 · « **Reply #3 on:** July, 24, 2010, 03:17:18 PM »

I didn't do any thing fancy. I just used zip ties and attached the clutch braided hose to a brake line mount along the lower firewall/toeboard. Then, after bleeding the system, I zip tied the bleed hose to the input hose.

And yes, bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is a pain... especially by myself.

buening · « **Reply #4 on:** July, 24, 2010, 03:21:38 PM »

I have some of those rubber hose clamp like this:

and used the closest bolt that attaches the trans to the bellhousing just above the clutch fork opening. I bled the clutch first with the bleeder hanging down, then attached both lines inside that clamp the the above bolt that is longer than the rest and used a nylok nut. Unfortunately it's all torn apart now and I didn't think to get pics before.

A helpful tip, if your clutch fork opening is at 7:00 or so you will need to rotate the bearing so that the bleeder line is at the very top to get rid of all bubbles. Mine is at the 7:00 so I had to suck in some of the hoses so the assembly could rotate enough to get the bleeder line at the very top. I used a Mighty Vac hand pump and use thread sealant on the bleeder valve. It worked OK but it still sucks in air though something. ModernDriveline said they use 2-5psi with a rubber tipped blow gun on the reservoir lid hole. They attach a clear hose to a cup and watch for air bubbles. The reservoir is pretty small so you'll frequently be adding more fluid. Be cautious of that, as its easy to empty the reservoir quickly. If you have questions just let me know! Sorry I don't have pics but hopefully that gives a good idea. Oh, and I just used a bolt in the firewall with a smaller rubber coated hose clamp to keep the feed line secure.

buening · « **Reply #5 on:** July, 24, 2010, 03:23:54 PM »

Also, its a good idea to get rubber hose , slit it, and put it over the stainless hose where it may touch the edge of the clutch fork opening to prevent abrasions. Black electrical tape will keep the hose from coming off. I too plan on making a sheetmetal dust cover along with some kind of square rubber insert with two openings for the lines. I'm picturing something similar to what is used on the power steering hose isolator that bolts to the bottom of the drivers shock tower.

66gt350 · « **Reply #6 on:** July, 25, 2010, 07:15:50 AM »

Quote from: garner67 on July, 24, 2010, 03:17:18 PM

I didn't do any thing fancy. I just used zip ties and attached the clutch braided hose to a brake line mount along the lower firewall/toeboard. Then, after bleeding the system, I zip tied the bleed hose to the input hose.

And yes, bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is a pain... especially by myself.

+1 that's pretty much what I did.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #7 on:** July, 25, 2010, 08:18:19 PM »

Well I mounted up the clutch and bell housing, measured everything up and set the depth on the slave and assembled things.

I sat and stared at the lines for a few mins trying to figure out how I want to run them. I decided to make a plate to cover the fork hole first.

I think I'm going to put two notches on the back end of the plate for the lines. With the notches in the back, it will hold the lines back away from the clutch. I'm gonna have to wait till the engine/trans is in the car to finalize the line routing.

buening · « **Reply #8 on:** July, 26, 2010, 04:13:09 AM »

It looks like you don't have any convenient bolts near the fork opening for those hose clamps. You could make an "L" bracket to attach to the piece that sticks out from the trans behind the fork opening to hold a hose clamp.

I wish my clutch fork opening was square like that. My "plate" would be simple. My opening is partially in the trans and then follows the curves of the bellhousing.

RyanG85 · « **Reply #9 on:** August, 01, 2010, 08:14:20 PM »

Finished the cover plate. I plan on making a bracket from the upper trans to bell housing bolt that goes up towards the firewall to secure the lines too.

buening · « **Reply #10 on:** August, 02, 2010, 04:08:30 AM »

Nice! Wanna make mine now? :lol :lol

garner67 · « **Reply #11 on:** August, 02, 2010, 10:38:20 AM »

Nicely done! Are you going to paint it?

Now I wish I would have fabricated a cover plate for mine when the engine was out. There's no way I'll be able to drill and tap threads in my scatter shield while it's installed in the car.