TCI AOD Constant Pressure Valve Body Opinions?

[Jonk67]

Anyone have pro's / con's to using TCI's (or other manuf. for that matter) Constant Pressure Valve Body?
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=436020

The new TCI® Constant Pressure Valve Body™ is now available for any stock or aftermarket 1980-93 Ford AOD transmission.
This cutting edge new product eliminates the most common installation error made by pros and amateurs alike – improper TV cable adjustment. When the cable is left either unhooked or incorrectly adjusted, the internal clutches and bands slip, causing great internal friction and loss of transmission efficiency.
The TCI® Ford AOD Constant Pressure Valve Body™ avoids all of those problems by ensuring proper line pressure, regardless of TV cable position, type of cable brackets or carburetion system. Until now, the TV cable adjustment on 1980-93 Ford AOD transmissions required a substantial amount of mechanical knowledge and ability.
Installation of the newly designed TCI® Ford AOD Constant Pressure Valve Body™ allows proper operation while removing slippage, thus avoiding common transmission destruction. While the TV cable still needs connection for proper part-throttle transmission shift operation, the TCI® Ford AOD Constant Pressure Valve Body™ allows more freedom as line pressure is fixed so that there is no chance of a low line pressure condition and the resulting damage to your transmission.

I'm installing a PATC built AOD (bought it in new cond. uninstalled off CL in '07 for a steal before the issues started popping up) and I want to bullet proof it as much as I can before installing, want to put everything in and drive w/o issue. I'll probably be bringing it to the local trans. shop guy  for a once over and have them install the TCI unit if I go that route. I've read bad things about the PATC valve body anyway, don't know how true they are but if this eliminates some TV setting issues and improves shifts I'm fine with the cost. I'm thinking it would make it easier if I ever disconnect the TV for upgrades, maint., tuning removal of carb., etc.

Just want to see what issues anyone may forsee or if there's a better alternative. I have a 2300-2500 stall to go in and guessing ~350-400fwhp. Car will be DD and some track fun.
Jon

[johnpro]

Personally, I think it's a waist of time and money.

I have a stock valve body in my AOD, and have put over 50k miles on it, and over 60 passes at the dragstrip.  So far, no problems (knock on wood).

Just adjust the TV cable properly and call it a day.

[PJ Moran]

The PATC valve body is junk and will ruin your tranny in no time.

I heard there were problems with TCI's first constant pressure units, but that the new ones are better.  Even so, they're a "patch".

Contact Dan Gilsdorf at Silverfox Transmission and have him build you a valve body.  That's what I did.

After two transmission rebuilds, and never getting proper shifting, the Silver Fox VB saved the day.  He may also recommend a different governor valve.  He did for mine and it was a good call.

[Jonk67]

Thanks PJ, I sent Dan an email with my setup and what I'm looking to do with it, then I'll go from there.
My biggest fear is that I have no idea if the upgraded clutches, etc. are actually installed in the PATC trans., I may have to learn how to open it up if I could identify the clutches by brand/material? I've never fiddled with an automatic internally other than installing a shift kit. My biggest fear is that after rebuilding the car for over a year that I would have to pull the trans. back out to be fixed. I want to finish the car and drive it.
Thanks, Jon

[tarafied1]

Until now, the TV cable adjustment on 1980-93 Ford AOD transmissions required a substantial amount of mechanical knowledge and ability.

I must be a genius! I swapped a HO 5.0L and AOD into a 92 T-Bird, adjusted the TV cable for a firm shift and it was DD for a couple years with no issues. Now my 19 year old son drives it everyday and still no problems!!!

[Jonk67]

I must be a genius! I swapped a HO 5.0L and AOD into a 92 T-Bird, adjusted the TV cable for a firm shift and it was DD for a couple years with no issues. Now my 19 year old son drives it everyday and still no problems!!!

Let's not get carried away here Craig... :craz
If it was an EFI swapped with the engine the brackets are already there and basically set from Ford from what I've read. The tricky part is mounting a TV cable to a carb. since you have to use the pressure test port on the AOD and have a fluid gauge that reads 0-5-30 psi to correctly adjust the cable to keep from frying the trans. in a mile possibly. It's not rocket science but does need to be set very close, I've read plenty of posts where people thought they had it 'close enough' and had a fried trans. w/in 50 mi. of driving.
Jon

[tarafied1]

Let's not get carried away here Craig... :craz
If it was an EFI swapped with the engine the brackets are already there and basically set from Ford from what I've read. The tricky part is mounting a TV cable to a carb. since you have to use the pressure test port on the AOD and have a fluid gauge that reads 0-5-30 psi to correctly adjust the cable to keep from frying the trans. in a mile possibly. It's not rocket science but does need to be set very close, I've read plenty of posts where people thought they had it 'close enough' and had a fried trans. w/in 50 mi. of driving.
Jon

no, not entirely. I swapped a V8 from a doner car and a trans from the junkyard that came out of who knows what into the T-bird that was a V6. The original V6 trans was fried from towing with a tow dolly. And yes the brackets were there but it still required adjusting no different than putting a bracket on a carb. I didn't use a gauge either. (I know you are supposed to)
The idea behind the TV cable is quite simple (I think). The TV cable simply tells the trans whether you are at idle or cruise speed or accelerating. If the trans is at idle, it doesn't need a lot of pressure. At cruise speed it needs enough not to slip but not as much as if the car is under acceleration where it will have to shift. All I did was play with the adjustment until I got a pretty firm shift. Also a little higher shift points than a granny mobile. That tells me the trans thinks it is accelerating or under load and applies pressure. Then I back it off until I got a decent shift and comfortable shift RPM's. It would be just as easy to do with a carb. It's only one cable...
It's still working and that swap was done about 6 years ago on a daily driver. So I am a genius **edit (SUPER GENIUS)**, thats my story and I'm sticking to it!

[tarafied1]

here is a link to a write up of basically how I did it... it's not that hard, really  :vic
http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm

[Jonk67]

Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen that one but read a few others, more info. helps. I'm leaning towards just installing a better VB than is probably in my trans now. Considering a VB with the ability to use an OD override button so I can lock out OD when I'm at the track, still researching.
Hopefully the rest of the trans holds up when I push it, the internals are an unknown for me. Guess I'll have to do the TV setting.
Thanks, Jon

[PJ Moran]

Thanks PJ, I sent Dan an email with my setup and what I'm looking to do with it, then I'll go from there.
My biggest fear is that I have no idea if the upgraded clutches, etc. are actually installed in the PATC trans. ...

When my guy tore into my tranny, he found that PATC had used most/all of the good parts they advertised.  We upgraded even more because I was really taxing this trans.  My engine's dyno'd at 524 HP and 517 FT-LB.  We installed a larger reverse drum which allowed us to use a wider fourth gear band (the one that I kept burning up).

The valve body will probably take care of everything, but you might consider a different governor valve.  PATC uses a "stock" valve and there are others that raise shift points.

[tarafied1]

I still have the AOD from the V6 that we fried by towing it. I saw an adaptor for an AOD to bolt to a 460. If you have

524 HP and 517 FT-LB.

I think I could get an AOD to live behind my mild 429??? yes/no??? I'm sure I don't have as much HP and torque as you. I'd love to have a 5 speed but an AOD swap would be a lot cheaper...

[gwstang]

"It would be just as easy to do with a carb. It's only one cable"
Lokar has the setup for the carbs.  I am using it for my 600 Edelbrock and it works great.

[johnpro]

Setting the TV cable/rod is NOT rocket science.  If you have the skills to put the tranny in, you have the skills to adjust the TV cable/rod.

[gwstang]

John, how true this is!  Seems everyone makes this out to be the big bear of aod's.  I even used the oil pressure gauge off my old ford tractor (nice to have old fords around...lol) to set the pressure for the tv.  I then drove it several times and decided to bump the shift points a bit.  So I just tightened up the cable a tad and it was just right...no rocket science involved.  As long as it's enough, it's good.  I think the bad name came from when Ford cheaped out and used a damn plastic grommet at the throttle plate on the efi cars instead of brass like the replacement was.  The plastic would get hard and crack and fall out, then the cable had no pressure and the clutches would burn up quickly. So the trusty AOD got a bad name from that. Hell, my wife had a Lincoln Mk7 that had 165K on it and still ran good with no problems.  I had replaced the grommet with the brass replacement when I read about it. 

[tarafied1]

John, how true this is!  Seems everyone makes this out to be the big bear of aod's.  I even used the oil pressure gauge off my old ford tractor (nice to have old fords around...lol) to set the pressure for the tv.  I then drove it several times and decided to bump the shift points a bit.  So I just tightened up the cable a tad and it was just right...no rocket science involved.  As long as it's enough, it's good.  I think the bad name came from when Ford cheaped out and used a damn plastic grommet at the throttle plate on the efi cars instead of brass like the replacement was.  The plastic would get hard and crack and fall out, then the cable had no pressure and the clutches would burn up quickly. So the trusty AOD got a bad name from that. Hell, my wife had a Lincoln Mk7 that had 165K on it and still ran good with no problems.  I had replaced the grommet with the brass replacement when I read about it. 

I agree 100% with as long as it enough it's good. The plastic grommet did break on one of my cars and fried the clutches. I was driving from St Paul to Chicago when it must have failed and at highway speeds I didn't notice the slipping. When I stopped for gas I know something was wrong. Anyway, you hit the nail on the head!

[Jonk67]

Thanks for all the advice folks and I think you're right, I'm looking for a solution for a problem that really isn't there. As Craig suggested I'll err on the side of too tight if anything, need to find an oil pressure gauge that goes down to 5psi.

I'm leaning towards replacing the valve body with one from Silverfox as posted by PJ as I don't know how the PATC one will react to ratchet shifting, staying out of OD at 1/4mi., etc. Silverfox has a 1 or 2 stage one that should work well for my driving and one with a button activated switch to deactivate the OD for trips to the track, etc. I'm really  considering this one but need to call him and speak at length, email just netted me a 'either will work well' reply so I guess he's pretty busy.

Getting closer to being comfortable with installing the new-2nd hand trans. may have it flushed first for peace of mind.
Jon

[gwstang]

"one with a button activated switch to deactivate the OD for trips to the track, etc"...

Oh heck yeah, that would be very cool and more like the later model trannies after the aod's.
One thing when I built my aod was to use the spiral locks on the drums so they won't come apart at higher rpm's shifts etc...makes a big difference when adding some goodies to the mix.  :ide

[tarafied1]

what length drive shaft are you using with the AOD?

[gwstang]

I'm using my original d.s. but had to shorten about 2".  That's with the aod yoke that came with the aod.  It was about $40 to have done.  Another $40 to have balanced.

[tarafied1]

thanks