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Putting my other woman back together

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opentrackerSteve

Guest
I have started seriously attempting to get my Mustang back together after a nearly 2 year hiatus.

On the way home from Knott's 2013, I lost coolant close enough to home that I thought I could make it.

It didn't make it and the car died when I got in traffic. Had the car towed home and was actually able to start it and get it in the driveway the day after that event.

Life came a calling and it's sat there since until this past weekend.

I got a new battery, electronic ignition and coil and still no joy on starting.

I did a compression test yesterday and the results were terrible. 75 psi on the highest cylinders (end cylinders, 1, 4, 5 and 8) and lower in the middle.

I suspect the head gasket material rotted away and is likely gone in the center of the heads.

I did pull the driver's side valve cover gasket and all looks ok inside on the top of the head (also verified rotation is fair).

I just ordered a set of head gaskets, intake set and a set of head bolts. I will start spending at least 1 hour a night pulling things apart in prep to be at Knott's (now less than 3 weeks away).

I didn't bother doing a wet test as I suspect that the rings are not broken (oil level was ok when I had gotten home).

Anyone got an input on other things to check - regardless of what is fouled up, I need to pull the heads at this time, so I'm proceeding.... The parts I ordered can be used in the future, so I've got nothing lost there....
 
yes, it is. However, finances are very limited at this time. I do want to replace the engine but it's going to have to wait until I can make something much more wicked....
 
I hear that. I've waited 3 yrs now and am just getting started on the next race motor.


Sent from my stupid phone
 
By tearing down deep enough to remove the heads you pretty much have the possible engine issues covered. Having sat that long and given the start of this tale I would go ahead and put a new water pump on it too. A bad seal there may have been the source of the coolant loss. Besides, sitting so long things tend to not hold up well. Cheap enough I would do it, no question. Same for hoses.

EDIT: If you suspect you blew a gasket from over-heating, and the tear down shows evidence, I would also give serious consideration to having the heads magnafluxed.
 
coolant loss was due to the drain bung weld splitting due to excessive weight of brass elbow, nipple (I said nipple) and valve..... I will check the water pump tho...
 
Here's an update (no foolin'). Pulled the pass side head last night. Looks like a head gasket to me based upon all of the water marks inside all cylinders (except #1). Driver's side gets pulled this evening. I already received the parts I ordered from Summit Racing on Monday. I picked up an intake manifold set, new rubber coated steel valve cover gaskets, ARP header bolts and SCE copper head gaskets..... I have already scheduled next Thu and Fri off so I can likely get this beast running by that time....

Just a couple of decontruction notes: Several loose bolts including: one alternator housing bolt, several header bolts and several intake manifold bolts! Some additional lok-tite will be used in re-assembly....
Picture of block showing water intrusion into cylinders (rust)
Must-2015-2.JPG

Picture of bottom of pass side cylinder head showing rust and solid valves (no visible cracks)
Must-2015-1.JPG
 
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I think it might have been the last one firing prior to it dying. Also recall that I had tried to start the motor a couple of times with some ether.......
 
Yeah I would go and get the heads checked. Just to make sure.

You bunch of kitty cats. I've seen worse off in some of the demolition derby cars that I've used and this motor has already taken a horrific beating by myself over the past 25 years..... I'm putting it back together unless I see something visually broken. See you at Knotts and you can shake your heads at me and at the fact this bitch is going to run!

Also just a note, look at the valley in that block picture. That is after 140,000 miles using AMSOIL 20W50 racing oil. It practically looks new!
 
You bunch of kitty cats. I've seen worse off in some of the demolition derby cars that I've used and this motor has already taken a horrific beating by myself over the past 25 years..... I'm putting it back together unless I see something visually broken. See you at Knotts and you can shake your heads at me and at the fact this bitch is going to run!

Also just a note, look at the valley in that block picture. That is after 140,000 miles using AMSOIL 20W50 racing oil. It practically looks new!

Sorry I've had too many friends get burned... JUST SAYIN...

See you at Knotts
 
Spray some WD40 into these cylinders , soak it and later on turn the crank to see what marks it left on the walls.
JMHO
 
Did you inspect the head gasket and see signs of where it failed? Way back when I slapped a set of heads back on after replacing a head gasket only to find out that it actually (or ended up) had a crack in a head. Nothing quite like doing a job twice. It was especially nice since I was young and poor at the time. Gaskets aren't cheap! Magnafluxing doesn't cost anymore than a second set of gaskets and you could save all the effort. Just sayin'.
 
Loose bolts? Locktite shouldn't be an issue... Quite the opposite, as you should never dry torque a bolt (AKA use some type of lube, i like the ARP stuff). Sounds like the bolts were not bolted down correctly OR were bolted down too tight and damaged the block...
Loose head bolts can cause water leaks as well... Chase the threads in the block, install ARP studs and reassemble with a in-spec torque wrench.
 
Happy Easter all!

Pulled the driver's side head n one of the valve seats is loose.

Going to order Edelbrock performer heads, maybe a cam.

Will roller rocker arms fit inside stock valve covers? (I think not)
 
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