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What did you get done on your Stang today????

I finished installing the new Accell DFI Thruster engine management setup. I ended up reterminating most of the ends to make a generic harness fit like it should. I will have the car towed over to the tuner today to make it run right. As part of the fuel injection computer change I updated my bypass valve to a Vortech race valve and added some Aeromotive fuel rails/regulator. According to the tuner I reached the limits of my Ford fuel rails and needed to make the change. I am hoping to see somewhere around 575-600 RWHP but more importantly a big improvement in driveability. Before I kept getting idle surge when coming off the throttle. It was really embarassing and annoying.

A side modification I had to do because of the fuel rails was the distributor. My new (1000 miles) MSD dizzy has a cap that was too large to run with the aftermarket fuel rails. I ended up having to replace it with a new Accell Small cap dual sync distributor. I am not entirely sure why the dual sync distributor is better but IIRC the tuner said that it will now be able to sequential firing instead of batch firing like the Ford EFI system. A side plus is about 1-2 MPG better fuel economy. I may be off on some of those facts buy you get the idea. I will clarify the detials with him later today.
 
I am not entirely sure why the dual sync distributor is better but IIRC the tuner said that it will now be able to sequential firing instead of batch firing like the Ford EFI system. A side plus is about 1-2 MPG better fuel economy. I may be off on some of those facts buy you get the idea. I will clarify the detials with him later today.

I'm pretty sure the 5.0 HO engines already are SEFI... Let us know if you confirm otherwise as I've been under the impression that the injectors are timed to the respective intake valve opening.
 
I am not totally sure of the difference but here is the description on the summit racing website.

Description: ACCEL's done it again with these DFI dual sync distributors. ACCEL DFI dual sync distributors are designed for engines using sequential-fire fuel injection that requires two signals--one for the cam, and one for the crank. All you need is the dual sync ignition adapter harness and a little installation time. ACCEL DFI dual sync distributors feature beautiful billet housings and an LED readout that allows you to sync up without expensive equipment. The adapter harness and large cap conversion (if desired) are available separately.




Darreld
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I am not entirely sure why the dual sync distributor is better but IIRC the tuner said that it will now be able to sequential firing instead of batch firing like the Ford EFI system. A side plus is about 1-2 MPG better fuel economy. I may be off on some of those facts buy you get the idea. I will clarify the detials with him later today.

He is right about that.
Todays injection systems works that way. Gas or Diesel systems.
Theoratical it should fire up faster ( in start/stop mode for sure ) and fuel economy is better.
IIRC.
 
Been fighting an oil leak around the rear of the block and the manual transmission bell housing for the past 2-3 years. Last year about this time, AZPete and I replaced the rear main seal, figuring that was the most likely problem. We also replaced the oil pan gasket as there were some minor problems there as well. Everything was good for about 2-3 weeks or so, and then the oil leak problem returned. As far as could be determined, it was not from the intake manifold or the valve cover gaskets, but somewhere near the rear of the engine. My suspicion was not sealing the flywheel bolts that go through the crank into the engine itself.

Today, we tore the car apart and removed the transmission and clutch to examine the rear of the engine to inspect the oil galley plugs and to re-seal the flywheel bolts. When we took everything apart, it was all dry except at the bottom of the rear crank. We then removed the oil pan gasket and found this:

oilpangasket.jpg


Ummm...Houston, we think we found the problem. For some reason, the gasket slipped during installation and was cut by the oil pan and the rear main seal grooves. Unfortunately, we broke a clutch return spring and a backup light switch, which are ordered and will finish re-installing everything later this week.
 
My gas pedal came loose so I removed it to check everything out. Looked up the proper spring location and put it all back together, good as new. Thought I might have damaged the pedal in my last drive but it was perfect.
 
The boy came home from college for Thanksgiving and took advantage of the nice weather to take his fastback out to lunch with some friends. When he finished lunch and came outside, his car attracted a friend...a 50 year younger friend!50yrs.jpg
 
The 65 crushes the new one in style points.

I agreee....I would choose the boy's fastback any day over any new car. I don't drive it as much as I should, but when I do there is no comparison to the sights, sounds, feelings you get when behind the wheel of a classic.
 
Ordered my winter project, Holley Terminator EFI system. I was waiting to see if Summit had any deals on the system for the holidays and they do $200+ off.


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The 65 crushes the new one in style points.

If you think KB4's car looks good in pictures, you need to see it up close and in person, it is absolutely breathtaking. The frosting on the cake is he is also a great kid ! The future of the hobby looks good.
 
I had some time on Friday and managed to get the AAW fuse box attached to their recommended mounting position on the firewall. I didn't want to use the supplied sheet metal screws, I have an assortment of nutserts and found the OD of a 10x24 nutsert would fit inside the mounting pads of the fuse box. I had to purchase an offset adapter to drill the holes, this Dewalt unit I found worked great.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA1...02&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt right angle adapter

After drilling the holes I installed the nutserts from the engine compartment side. Ducked under the dash and cut away the insulation, slid the fuse box into position and screwed it in place. I ran the bundle of wires for the horn, cooling fan, and lights out through the firewall and then through the left inner fender so I can hide the wires. I pulled the wires for the supply for the fuse box that connects to the alternator and the wire for the starter solenoid out as well.

I spent time customizing the length of the Holley EFI harness for the MAT, TPS, coolant temp, and MAP sensors. I also tried to run the harness for the injectors but found it way to long, so I pulled it all apart and ordered the necessary terminals and seals so I can lop off about 8" or so from the overall length. I'm going to end up making nearly every one of the sub-harnesses shorter, the only one I will leave alone is the wide band O2 harness, I don't want to take a chance and cause problems with it later. I made a mess of my existing glove box liner trying to figure out how to mount the ECU inside of it without having the ECU touch the metal of the dash and allowing sufficient clearance behind the box so the wires will be free and clear of other things. Drilled a hole and ran the wires that will connect to the battery to power the ECU, they are right next to where the antenna cable comes into the car.

I also made a plate with some ABS and aluminum channel to support the relays and receiver for the keyless entry and remote trunk release. I plan to locate this above the heater box, it's near where it was before so the harness I used before for the locks and to supply power for the window motors can be reused. lock relay and reciever.JPG
 
I had some time on Friday and managed to get the AAW fuse box attached to their recommended mounting position on the firewall. I didn't want to use the supplied sheet metal screws, I have an assortment of nutserts and found the OD of a 10x24 nutsert would fit inside the mounting pads of the fuse box. I had to purchase an offset adapter to drill the holes, this Dewalt unit I found worked great.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA1...02&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt right angle adapter

After drilling the holes I installed the nutserts from the engine compartment side. Ducked under the dash and cut away the insulation, slid the fuse box into position and screwed it in place. I ran the bundle of wires for the horn, cooling fan, and lights out through the firewall and then through the left inner fender so I can hide the wires. I pulled the wires for the supply for the fuse box that connects to the alternator and the wire for the starter solenoid out as well.

I spent time customizing the length of the Holley EFI harness for the MAT, TPS, coolant temp, and MAP sensors. I also tried to run the harness for the injectors but found it way to long, so I pulled it all apart and ordered the necessary terminals and seals so I can lop off about 8" or so from the overall length. I'm going to end up making nearly every one of the sub-harnesses shorter, the only one I will leave alone is the wide band O2 harness, I don't want to take a chance and cause problems with it later. I made a mess of my existing glove box liner trying to figure out how to mount the ECU inside of it without having the ECU touch the metal of the dash and allowing sufficient clearance behind the box so the wires will be free and clear of other things. Drilled a hole and ran the wires that will connect to the battery to power the ECU, they are right next to where the antenna cable comes into the car.

I also made a plate with some ABS and aluminum channel to support the relays and receiver for the keyless entry and remote trunk release. I plan to locate this above the heater box, it's near where it was before so the harness I used before for the locks and to supply power for the window motors can be reused. View attachment 25881
The number one thing I have always liked about your car is the craftsmanship you used in every little detail like you are doing here. I have never seen a ride with better attention to detail of all the little things that most will not even notice.
 
The number one thing I have always liked about your car is the craftsmanship you used in every little detail like you are doing here.


Too bad you can't do that type of work on your car :-0


Mark

Sent from my semi-smart phone
 
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