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Deciding on Engine Mounts

Horseplay

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Donator
Haven't decided just yet on what to use for mounts when I drop in the engine. I have the original early 65 stands I could use with a new set of stock upper mounts. I'm using a new Air Gap intake and am a little concerned about hood clearance. My air cleaner* does not have a drop base and one is not available. I also want to use a carb spacer as well. So, I'm thinking TCP style adjustable mounts to get that 1/2" drop and maybe a little front to back ability as well.

Two questions.

1. Do I need the drop for hood clearance?

2. For those that have the adjustable mounts, how much more motor vibration do you really feel?

*from the mounting surface on the carb to the top of the air cleaner nut is about 3 1/2"
 
I'm making some Ron Morris style adjustable that Buening reverse engineered. Still got to get them worked out, so no feedback.
 
"1. Do I need the drop for hood clearance?"


That is a loaded question. So many variables to deal with!

I had the TCP adj mounts, 1" spacer, air gap, 4150DP, 3" tall, round air cleaner with the drop base and the Shelby FG hood. It all fit, but just barely.

I still have all that with the 302 hybrid, except the intake is a stock type. Still no problems.


"2. For those that have the adjustable mounts, how much more motor vibration do you really feel?"

I've never noticed much engine vibration, except for when the 289 blew up. I think it's an old wives tale.
 
Can't completely answer your question but you can use what you already have to lower the engine.

I'm running a carb hat for a blow through, and the air filter for the supercharger sits a little high. I too have the early 65 motor mounts with the "L" shaped brackets. I did a lot of measuring before I modded, pythagorean theorum comes into play. I wanted to lower the engine 1/2" and rearward 1". I slotted the hole (allowing 1/2") in the frame mount piece that the L bracket sits on top of. I remounted the L bracket studs 1/2" forward. Both studs needed to move inward a little too, this allows the L brackets to sit further back and wider apart allowing the block (with the rubber mounts) to drop down lower in between the L brackets. I had to also drill new holes to the L brackets to receive the stud from the rubber mounts. After I had everything set where I wanted it, I raised the engine a little, taking the weight off the DS mount. Unbolted the DS mount from the block keeping the mount and L bracket together. I drill a 1/2" hole through the center of mount steel top plate and all the way through the L bracket. I use two thick grade 8 washers and a grade 8 1/2" bolt with a nylon lock nut. Tighten just snug enough so there is no slack. This lets the rubber continue to dampen yet won't tear apart from torque.

Another technique is to shave some of the rubber off the mounts.

My 66 is already low, plus the added weight of the iron 351c heads the old headers (which rubbed a lot) I had were the lowest part of the car until I swapped them for a tighter fitting set. I run a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing which has a wide flange that mates to the flywheel blockoff plate. This flange hangs down about " below the bell and is the lowest point of the car. It used to high center on uneven roads. I was always worried I'd snag a railroad track at crossings that I could feel dips on. I cut abought half of the bottom of the flange off. Next low item to worry about, the 8 quart Canton oil pan. I ended up going with a taller diameter tire which raised the car 1". All said and done I still have to mod the hood.
 
Last edited:
msell66 said:
"1. Do I need the drop for hood clearance?"


That is a loaded question. So many variables to deal with!

I had the TCP adj mounts, 1" spacer, air gap, 4150DP, 3" tall, round air cleaner with the drop base and the Shelby FG hood. It all fit, but just barely.
Click to expand...
See. Now that is a big help. I don't want to be jacking things in and out, up and down. In and done is the goal. I agree lots to consider but I think you have it pretty much covered. The only thing I didn't mention was my hood choice. I have two. Stock (already painted) and the fiberglass one with the 67 Shelby style hood scoop yet unpainted. I gives me about an extra inch clearance.
Comparing yours to mine (don't go there), I would say height wise all considered they are about the same if I went with a thinner spacer to make up for lack of a drop base. Does yours take advantage of any of the extra room the scoop gives you? If not than the stock hood would clear, right?

Hate to waste $250 for an extra 1/2" drop I don't need.
 
LATAMUD said:
Can't completely answer your question but you can use what you already have to lower the engine.

I'm running a carb hat for a blow through, and the air filter for the supercharger sits a little high. I too have the early 65 motor mounts with the "L" shaped brackets. I did a lot of measuring before I modded, pythagorean theorum comes into play. I wanted to lower the engine 1/2" and rearward 1". I slotted the hole (allowing 1/2") in the frame mount piece that the L bracket sits on top of. I remounted the L bracket studs 1/2" forward. Both studs needed to move inward a little too, this allows the L brackets to sit further back and wider apart allowing the block (with the rubber mounts) to drop down lower in between the L brackets. I had to also drill new holes to the L brackets to receive the stud from the rubber mounts. After I had everything set where I wanted it, I raised the engine a little, taking the weight off the DS mount. Unbolted the DS mount from the block keeping the mount and L bracket together. I drill a 1/2" hole through the center of mount steel top plate and all the way through the L bracket. I use two thick grade 8 washers and a grade 8 1/2" bolt with a nylon lock nut. Tighten just snug enough so there is no slack. This lets the rubber continue to dampen yet won't tear apart from torque.

Another technique is to shave some of the rubber off the mounts.

My 66 is already low, plus the added weight of the iron 351c heads the old headers (which rubbed a lot) I had were the lowest part of the car until I swapped them for a tighter fitting set. I run a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing which has a wide flange that mates to the flywheel blockoff plate. This flange hangs down about " below the bell and is the lowest point of the car. It used to high center on uneven roads. I was always worried I'd snag a railroad track at crossings that I could feel dips on. I cut abought half of the bottom of the flange off. Next low item to worry about, the 8 quart Canton oil pan. I ended up going with a taller diameter tire which raised the car 1". All said and done I still have to mod the hood.
Click to expand...
That's something to consider that I hadn't. I will take a look at the stock pieces tonight and see how modding them would look.

I used to run with a 9 quart deep sump Moroso pan on my first 65 coupe. It was chrome and it was maybe 4 inches off the ground. Wrapped right around it were a set of long tubes. Looking straight on it was bad ass...but every rock or squished rabbit on the road got my attention. Every speed bump had me angling like a was riding a bike. Crazy.

Your last line made me laugh. That's what I am afraid of.
 
Horseplay said:
Does yours take advantage of any of the extra room the scoop gives you? If not than the stock hood would clear, right?

Hate to waste $250 for an extra 1/2" drop I don't need.
Click to expand...

Yes, it did. Now, it just barely sits under the flat part of the hood. Without the scoop, the 289 and air gap would not fit (at least with the FG hood).

The pic shows the top of the hold down bolt to the air filter as the car sits today.


IMG_4592.JPG
 
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